Drama, theatricals, and the unexpected often dictate Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY's runway shows -- just take a look at the designer's Spring/Summer 2020 show that HYPEBEAST deemed to "scare and surprise." However, this wasn't the case for FW21, as Jeffrey takes time to reflect and look inwards with the latest collection, "Gloom."
With this in mind, "Gloom" presents itself as a moment of finding oneself. It reflects on plenty of what's come before it but also gazes into the unknown, essentially speaking on the ongoing global lockdowns as we impatiently wait for something more exciting to come along. "Gloom" somewhat captures this moment: the stillness of the models and their poise feels like a still life painting, but the garments that hang from them are exciting and eager to be worn loud-and-proud outside, having fun.
This contrast is further expressed by the treatment applied by Jeffrey which sees pieces assembled to look as if the fabric is tumbling or unraveling, while others are constructed with threadbare tartan (a twist on the Scottish-born, London-based designer's signature), and elsewhere we see polka dot prints treated with an enzyme wash to make it look blown out and aged.
The use of paint brings vintage pieces to life and taps into the creative outlets many of us found during the lockdown, and soon we start to see more usual LOVERBOY references to the concepts of underground club culture, Madchester (a sort of indie-dance, acid house, rave music, psychedelia-infused hybrid subculture that was popular in Manchester in the late '80s), and elements of the brand's love for the theatrical.
Standouts include the sweaters that combine a clashing amount of materials and prints together that's then purposely deconstructed to near-obliteration, the purple suit ensemble, and the abstract red-and-white LOVERBOY-emblazoned look. Typically, much more is to be seen with Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, so check out its FW21 "Gloom" collection in the Thurstan Redding-shot and Matthew Josephs-styled lookbook above.
For more nods to Madchester, check out Levi's Vintage Clothing's SS21 collection.
Click here to view full gallery at HYPEBEAST
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