After last year's pared-down and mostly digital offerings, New York Fashion Week finally returned last week with an in-person calendar. Focusing on the Spring/Summer 2022 season, there was a widespread display of versatility and as the city finally re-opened its doors to one of its mainstays of artistic expression.
Certain elements of menswear maintained their usual ruggedness and street sensibility but were heightened by unique silhouettes and elevated methods of styling. The men's collections also moved away from rigid gender constraints, showcasing skirts, bright colors and accentuated waists. Here are five of the biggest menswear trends to come out of this year's NYFW:
Modern Tailoring:
Willy Chavarria SS22
Willy Chavarria SS22
Willy Chavarria SS22
Willy Chavarria SS22
Thom Browne SS22
Thom Browne SS22
Thom Browne SS22
Private Policy SS22
Private Policy SS22
Willy Chavarria took his brand to new heights with the showcasing of structurally bold designs. Most notably were his first four looks of dramatically oversized pleated trousers that were cinched at the waist and featured interior silk shorts that appeared as a double layer in contrasting colors. Chavarria also played with volume through button-down shirts and quarter-zip shirts, which exhibited reconstructed hallowed out sleeves and oversized collars.
Thom Browne stayed true to his aesthetic of uniformed classic tailoring. However, this year's designs were expanded featured expanded silhouettes, trench coats with sawed-off sleeves and structural A-line dresses.
Select looks from Private Policy’s monochromatic SS22 collection fused tailored elements with a utilitarian theme. Specifically, pants with strap detailing were paired with either a blazer or a top with reworked details.
Wide Leg Pants:
Willy Chavarria SS22
Willy Chavarria SS22
Willy Chavarria SS22
Willy Chavarria SS22
LUAR SS22
LUAR SS22
LUAR SS22
Death to Tennis SS22
Aside from the Haute Couture cinched trousers that opened the Willy Chavarria show, the designer's latest collection also featured other bottoms with loose silhouettes and extended leg lengths. Some of the pants featured sturdy workwear materials, while others utilized wool materials for a more traditional tailored look.
LUAR also touched on wide-leg pants using materials like denim and cotton. However, the brand added a deconstructed touch by introducing zippered accents and scrunched leg detailing.
Death to Tennis also experimented with larger pant silhouettes, adding a pair of cropped moss green pants with black nature-inspired designs to its collection.
Shades of Denim:
Theophilio SS22
Theophilio SS22
Theophilio SS22
WHO DECIDES WAR SS22
WHO DECIDES WAR SS22
WHO DECIDES WAR SS22
WHO DECIDES WAR SS22
LUAR SS22
Theophilio played with structured silhouettes for its denim offerings, highlighting oversized demin jacket designs with elongated shoulders.
Ev Bravado of WHO DECIDES WAR is known for his command of denim, integrating the material into his latest collection with signature deconstructed pieces and frayed denim with embroidery. Additionally, the brand presented new denim motifs with church-inspired stained glass patches featuring Black civil rights leaders.
LUAR utilized dark denim for reconstructed jeans and a cropped jacket, in line with the monochromatic offerings of his collection.
Updated Workwear:
TOMBOGO SS22
TOMBOGO SS22
TOMBOGO SS22
Private Policy SS22
Private Policy SS22
Helmut Lang SS22
Helmut Lang SS22
Helmut Lang SS22
TOMBOGO’s SS22 collection centered around workwear-inspired garments with its focus on double front pants. Coming in a few different colors like traffic cone orange, powder blue and white, the pants featured pocket detailing with big silver fasteners.
Private Policy also touched on the double front pants style but opted to alter its designs by including mixed materials, like silk and cotton, for an elevated touch to workwear-inspired garments.
Helmut Lang took a tactical approach to its utilitarian cadence. Collection pieces included flight suit-inspired garments with zipper and pocket details. The most prominent flight suit featured was crafted in bold burnt orange color with a goldenrod yellow interior lining.
Knit Layering:
WHO DECIDES WAR SS22
WHO DECIDES WAR SS22
WHO DECIDES WAR SS22
WHO DECIDES WAR SS22
TOMBOGO SS22
TOMBOGO SS22
For both WHO DECIDES WAR and TOMBOGO, knit layering served as a way of adding extra flair to streetwear pieces. Specifically, the knitwear pieces encompassed sweater vests and restructured knitted tops.
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